Set the policy back to **Not Configured**: that deletes the value and returns the machine to the default. Deleting the key by hand is equivalent but skips the audit trail in gpedit.
Remove-ItemProperty 'HKLM:\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\WindowsUpdate\AU' -Name 'NoAutoUpdate' -Force
gpupdate /force
reg query "HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies\Microsoft\Windows\WindowsUpdate" /s
⚠ warningPolicies under HKLM\SOFTWARE\Policies override the user-facing settings. Leaving a stale value behind is why a settings page stays greyed out.